Truffles and Termes in Tuscany

"Tell them and they will sing your praises and forever be in your debt."

There’s more to Tuscany than wine. After many years of traveling the wine roads of Chianti on SS222 under the looming gaze of the Black Rooster (Gallo Nero, symbol of the Chianti Wine League) I was ready for a change. Don’t get me wrong, there’s nothing more thrilling than traveling along the twisting Via Chiantigiana (SS222). Fields of sunflowers and hillsides of vineyards and olive trees pass by and the glow of burnt umber, olive green and red wine color the landscape with breathtaking beauty. You can easily spend a week wandering down the winding roads from this town to the next eating salumi, crostini and wild boar, searching for the perfect ribollito, stopping to sample the classic wines of the region, developing what I refer to as that “Tuscan Glow”.

But on this trip I was in search of another Tuscan treasure, the aromatic white truffle (tartufo bianco) found in the woods near the town of San Giovanni d’Asso, south of Siena, in the rolling hills of the Crete Senesi near Montalcino, and along the way pay a visit to a terme, one of the many natural hot springs that can be found in the Tuscan countryside.

The Crete Senesi (pronounced KREH-teh seh-NEH-seh) is a rolling panorama of wind swept hills and isolated farmhouses south of Siena. It attracts travelers seeking the elemental Tuscan experience. The rolling hills are dotted with cyclists and the woods that straddle the Crete and the Val d’Orcia are the perfect place to find the legendary tartufo bianco, Italian white truffle. So after taste testing some remarkable Italian truffle honey I traveled to the village of San Giovanni d’Asso. As a place d'Asso refers to the Asso River. The village is built on a clay cliff directly overlooking the right bank.

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  Truffle Museum San Giovanni d'Asso

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  Italian White Truffle

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  Crete Senesi

On the road less traveled, among the clay hills of the Crete, most travelers would need to think outside the box to visit San Giovanni d'Asso. But if they do they know they have arrived at a place that is very special and are then confronted with an age old question, should I or shouldn’t I? Should I or shouldn’t I tell everyone I know about this wondrous, magical place of food and earthy delights, home of the Italian white truffle and a unique locanda (country inn) with a ristorante whose food is memorable and wine selection impeccable. I wouldn't tell everyone but you are my select few who will appreciate the unique nature of this small (938 inhabitants) medieval village.

San Giovanni d’Asso is the home of the Museo di Tartufo, Italys first museum dedicated to the truffle and you will definitely want to visit the unique exhibits that allow you to get up close and personal with the prized fungus. There’s even an “odorama” exhibit that allows visitors to experience the heady aromas of dozens of different kinds of truffles. Located in a 13th century castle, the museum is next to La Locanda del Castello, a country inn inside the walls surrounding the Castle of San Giovanni d'Asso.

There is an intimate ristorante downstairs from the inn that overlooks the landscape of the town and valley below.  When ordering, I would willingly take the advice of chef. I ate a delicious pici pasta with cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) one night and another night a wild boar ragu’. An assorted salumi platter included Lardo di Colonnata, a protected Tuscan delicacy that is particular to the region. A restful night followed in my room decorated with 19th century Italian country furniture combined with touches of French toile fabric to create what I would imagine to be the style of day when traveling from locanda to locanda.

Waters at Terme Antic Querciolaia

My final day in Tuscany was spent at an Italian terme, a natural hot springs with mineral-rich, geothermal waters known for their beneficial properties for health and well-being. Popes, pilgrims, princes and everyday Italians have traveled to these natural hot springs seeking the therapeutic benefits of the waters since ancient times. On last year’s trip I got “my feet wet” at Bagno Vignoni, a small medieval town south of Siena. This year I plan to go to Terme Antica Querciolaia near the town of Rapolano Terme. There are other popular termes in Italy; Montecatini and Saturnia come to mind, that are more tourist oriented, but I like to travel like an Italian so this type of terme appeals to me. It is small, family oriented (yes, Italian children come with their parents) with 3 large pools rich in minerals such as calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium. I spent one memorable afternoon in September languishing in the thermal waters of Antica Querciolaia under the Tuscan sun knowing that this was another reason why Italy is the best place on earth.

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